You know when you and your judy are Kiki-ing and you have to have a serious moment. That is what we call a womanly moment between women. So as we wait for the Met Gala them, the costume institute has a new exhibition launching on the 7th of December (Welcome to the Renaissance 🙆♀️). The theme is “Woman dressing women” and will highlight “the work of over seventy womenswear designers, spanning ca. 1910 to 2022” So I thought I would start having a look at some people I think should be in the exhibit.
Okay, this is fun. Also did you know I have book club? It’s called fashion look it up. This week, we spoke about the SS24 Season. How fun? Yes you will be getting reviews. Just be patient but if you want to join, let me know.
Anyway, Women Dressing Women
Mrs Miuccia Prada
Duh, Are we surprised? More on my iconic mother
There are so many pieces you could chose from her oeuvre that have defined her tenure and have impacted fashion. I chose 2 because they have impacted different generations. Firstly, I chose this from the SS96 Banal Eccentricities Collection (Also know as the ugly chic collection) Robin Givhan titled her review “Ugly is in” and the effects of this collection are still seen today. To quote Material Magazine
With this approach, Miuccia Prada took a stand for disagreeing with what everybody else seems to agree on – paving the way for a range of designers following her lead to break rules of any aesthetic norms and forms in their own ways.
Secondly I chose this look from the SS22 Basic Instincts Miu Miu collection. Everyone was scrambling for a moment like this. The revolutionary idea of just taking your clothing and just slicing them harkens back to Mrs Prada’s own history. She would take her own clothing and slice it with a pair of scissors to make it shorter. This changed the game. It was almost liberating on a mass level.
Iris Van Herpen
When talking about women, dressing women, it is very important to talk about the avant garde. Iris van Herpen isn’t Avant Garde. She is a futurist. Her integration of technology infused with biomimicry has defined a whole new wave of fashion. It challenged the definition of what couture is. While there are so many moments that one can chose from, I chose this moment where she has created a still life garment of water flowing around. It’s artistic. It’s ICONIC.
Stella McCartney
I know this seems wild to include the biggest nepo baby in the game but I think we would be minimising her impact on the fashion industry. When she first joined Chloé, she made a simple request, No Leather, No Fur. Throughout her journey in the industry, she has lead the charge for conscious fashion through eliminating PVC and then progressing to where she now is one of the leaders in the industry for sustainability. You can check out the show notes for her AW23 Collection and she details how she made the first vegan Stan Smiths. Her pioneering use of sustainable materials from Mycelium based leather.
Rei Kawakubo
There are few who are more deserving than she, her. Rei Kawakubo is truly avant garde in the way she explores the relationship between the body and the clothing. From the iconic lumps and bumps collection to her explorations of deconstruction. She is your favourite designer’s favourite designer. Everyone from Viktor and Rolf, Alexander McQueen, Donna Karen and Jean Paul Gauthier have mention her or feinted her as an influence or inspiration. She has also developed Japanese talent. She even had her own exhibit at the Costume Institute so duh, she has to be here. It’s imperative. I chose this look from the AW12 Collection which is a commentary on the state of the industry at the time and of course, Lady Gaga using it as an expression on the commentary on her body. Genius.
Dilara Findikoglu
When it was announced that Findikoglu would not be showing this season, there was a wave of sadness that hit the fashion streets. The young CSM Graduate has built a cult following over the past few years that is ever growing. Using gothic, religious, sexy, punk and classical imagery to create this feminine revolt and commentary, she is creating a world for us to marvel and enjoy. While she has not had the same amount of time as everyone else on this list, she is a part of this new generation that is redefining womenswear and doing it on her own terms. I chose the iconic cutlery set because duh.
Okay, So I didn’t tell you that it’s going to be a series. I really wanted to journey through and look at women who have defined womenswear. This is just the beginning and I feel like this is ever so relevant in the modern climate.
Have a great day and remember to paint the world pussy pink.
Loves it,