Feminine Fierce Flagrant Ferocious Fashions
I got lazy and stuck with 5
As you can tell, this series of newsletters where I get to talk about Women has been really fun for me. I have enjoyed looking at women and their contributions to womenswear but it also has been really tricky because there aren’t a lot of black women in these streets. While I could bring up some people like Anita Mvuemba or Aurora James, they haven’t had their “Dilara or Elena moment.” Plus, this is womenswear so I can’t bring up Grace Wales Bonner or Martine Rose so, lol.
I know, it is more difficult to get out of the gate as a black women but I guess I wanted to say that they deserve more and better. I know someone like Rachel Scott of Diotima will have their moment to shine (even though I low key dragged her lol) It is no secret that history has put barriers on black women who have wanted to become stars in the game but I think that a reckoning is on it’s way.
Anyway, I wanted to talk about that before I continue on my quest.
Mary Quant
The miniskirt. She never claimed to have invented the design (crediting the mods in the streets who would push her to make dresses shorter) but she named it after her favourite car, “the mini” The queen of youth quake, a cultural movement in the 60s that would be all about rebellion and self determination, she would lead this shift in society and dress.
Jil Sander
The mother of the essentialist camp in minimalism. Jil Sander started her brand in 1968 and eventually ended up showing in Paris in 1975. She wanted to create FUNCTIONAL workwear which became the go to for the working woman. It has been said, “Her purism changed the idea of beauty.” It was about making the best clothes. She wasn’t selling an idea like most in the fashion industry, she selling items at the highest level combining Bauhaus with German industrialism.
Ann Lowe
In 1964, the Saturday Evening Post later called Lowe "society's best kept secret" and in 1966, Ebony magazine referred to her as "The Dean of American Designers. Known, most notably, for creating Jackie Kennedy’s wedding dress, Lowe was one of the Black Women who defeated the odds even though she was never financially successful. Even though her name has been omitted from the history books, she has slowly been recognised as the first African-American designer. I decided to chose this image of Lowe with one of her designs
Jeanne Lanvin
Jeanne Lanvin would become a milliner at 1889 and then a member of the chambre in 1909. She’s a pioneer. While society was no where near the place of create beyond limitations of gender, Jeanne Lanvin was the first designer to create men’s couture and the first to create a “mixed” (genderless) perfume. She would also be one of the leaders of children’s clothing. She was truly the champion of creating a business that catered for all your needs. Lanvin Modes would be a one stop shop for Lingerie, Hats, furs, sports attire, bridal and interior design alongside the main offering of womenswear, menswear and childrenswear. it was a lifestyle revolution creating the blueprint for brands like Fendi and Versace.
Dimitra Petsa
It would be foolish for me to ever exclude the prolific designs that make Di Petsa the brand it has become. Renowned for the signature “Wetlook” dress which is a “symbol of self acceptance and honouring of our fluid state.” Worn by muses Bella Hadid, FKA Twigs, Lizzo, Doja Cat, SZA to name a few, it has become an instantly recognisable style of work and textile brilliance. She has changed the game forever.
For the last part of the series, I am going to look at the press and see who has been featured in this exhibition but before I do that, I want to do a shout out section for people I haven’t gotten to mention
Madame Gres
Coco Chanel
Diane Von Furstenberg
Nensi Dojaka
Jean Patou
Vivienne Westwood
Phoebe Philo
Chitose Abe
And many more.
Have a great day and remember to be soft kvnt and feminine
Loves it,