POOJA WHAT IS THIS BEHAVIOUR 🧹

Controversial, yet brave

Okay, it’s giving content, look it up

In honour of us covering Indian Couture, I decided that I needed to take a moment to talk about POOJA

ANYWAY

So today, behind the hottest paywall since the Berlin Wall (cancel me) I am going to be talking to you about square space.

Jokes, it’s our 4th instalment of the Couture Catch Up divas and today, we are talking about Gaurav Gupta.

Before I get Carried Away, I will be covering Fashion Month across the multiverse so from Next Week, I don

But anyway, lets travel to quaint old India (I’m paraphrasing Suzy Menkes, my goddess but also, yikes)

Before we get the show on the road, Remember if you aren’t following Maison NMB, you’re only getting a third of the story.

Gaurav Gupta is an incredibly talented couturier from India. He started his eponymous label in 2005 after graduating from Central Saint Martins (Gag right?) While probably following the standards for Haute Couture, the brand was given guest member status by the FHCM in December 2022 subsequently showing apart of the couture week in SS23.

His AW23 Couture collection was titled Hiranyagarbha. Hiranya translates as golden and garbha, the womb. The collection is inspired by a life cycle of sorts using “traditional Indian embroidery techniques like zardozi, nakshi and dabka,” celebrating the journey.

Phase 1: The First Light

The first few looks refer to the the first light. In these opulent whites, he alludes to the “blank canvas” of life. We get to see Gupta’s characteristic swirls in looks and pearlescent embroideries embodying this cosmic birth.

Phase 2: Cocoon

In the verdic creation story, Brahma created water and then dropped a seed into the primal ocean. The second section of this collection is multiple looks in brown meant to harken to this cosmic branch that wraps around this chrysalis of life in protection. We get these swirls and shrouds of taffeta cocooning our wearer in various earthy gowns.

Phase 3: Bloom

The third section of this show is the blooming of this seed. We see bright greens representing the foliage and leaf that emerge. Yes, Beyoncé wore that gown on the ever growing list of designers tapped for her Renaissance World Tour.

Phase 4: Malachite

In the show notes, Gupta mentions “Malachite shows the sheer power of life to spring from everywhere and a magical stone that connects and heals the whole universe as we move along.” The crystal is often used for healing and protection. Here we see a bevy of Malachite coloured gowns ending off the collection.

Looking at the collection, it is great to see the iconography that made him popular in the modern fashion zeitgeist. There is development of this motif but it feels shallow at best. I think there is some stunning garment technology and a primal tortuous feeling in the clothing but that comes at a cost with the silhouettes feeling rough. While I might not be singing its praises and crowning glory, I still think this collection gives its customer a fantastical springboard.

Have a great day and remember that she thinks you like the beach, you’re such a damn LIAR.

Loves it,