So the Bedbugs have hit the UK so like the bed bugs, I wanna spread our reach. While Shanghai is happening, I have chosen to stay out of it because there is literally SO MUCH we need to talk about from the last 6 weeks.
Mugler
Girls, this is the day we have been waiting for. This is Casey trying something NEW. While I struggle with the girls who have been crying for the old Mugler, please remember that the team is not the same. It’s shrunken to the point of no return. Casey had to make money moves and he did that and then beat the horse till it was dead.
This season we see Casey start dipping his toe into the archive to influence the newest offering. From the opening look, we know things are changing up in here. The collection looks to explore Cadwallader’s fascination with the ocean, a theme that Thierry Mugler explored in the SS89 Les Atlantes collection. (I am still waiting for the power suits Casey) Casey actually gives subtle nods to the collection.
Anyway, the collection is amazing. The clothing feels realistically grounded in theatricality unlike our friends who we discuss later. There is wonder, there is whimsy, there is innovation in the 3D printed “glass” corsets. There’s floating tailoring and graphic anatomical sculpting. It’s grand. The finale. Anok is the model of the year. Periodt.
Rapid Runway Rundown
Dries Van Noten
Does this man know how to miss? Looking to familiarity, structure, and formality to create spontaneous clothing that is ALIVE. I can’t even because this is perverse. Papa Dries. Hats off to ya mawma.
Wiederhoeft
I think this lends itself to the theatricality of its context. It’s beautiful but sometimes borders on the costume line but manages to hold its line. I’m not the biggest fan but it’s cool for those who like it. Incredible craftsmanship and detail.
Undercover
The greatest episode of a night in the museum on the runway. It’s incredibly intimate whilst being ever so encompassing. Like the terrarium, you see the whole world of the clothing and its genius to me. That finale, no notes.
Roberto Cavalli
I really need some time in his archive to understand what Fausto is doing. I think the collection is what my mind says a Cavalli collection should look like, but I think I am scratching. It was fun, something for the summertime whilst crossing generations. There was something for everyone.
Molly Goddard
I have A LOT TO SAY ABOUT THIS COLLECTION.
I coincidentally went on YouTube and saw this show was live and decided to watch. It was sort of the end of my “championing Molly Goddard” era. I had grown tired of what the brand was offering as the swung towards the commercial angle. I get you, it’s how you survive but finding the balance of creating meaningful work whilst making it accessible is the hard part.
SHE SHUT ME UP IMMEDIATELY
It’s the simple idea of turning everything inside out in a way that hit the romantic heart of the brand. Just masterful and even artful.
The collection begins with a structured cardigan and a ruched (Ill make an argument for pleats because of what happens throughout the collection) ruffle skirt in a canvas (I’ll even go to a linen if i am pushed.) I think what’s fun is that the ruching pulls the skirt up. The reason I think the Cardigan is important is that we are seeing seams mimic boning. It almost looks inside out. As the collection continues we see the characteristic Goddard tulle turned inside out. We see underskirts and underwear and periodwear. It’s in tulle, its quilted, its in canvas, it’s just FAB. like, it so perverse (word of the season thanks to my drag mother)
Have a great day and remember to get all up in your mind.
Loves it,